You will find everything from a brief stroll to a lookout to the more taxing gorge and coastal cliff routes on the trails of Kalbarri National Park. What is right for you is a matter of the season, your fitness and footwear, how much time is at hand and an inclination for either the Murchison River Gorge or the Indian Ocean side of things.
I have been around enough Australian tracks to know that “easy” may yet put you in sand up to your ankles, so I have made this guide to Kalbarri’s trails as straightforward as possible. Emily Whitmore here, travel writer from Brisbane and something of a road-trip enthusiast when it comes to the region. There is red rock and big skies to be had, not to mention a mozzie or two with what seems like a grudge against you and very little in the way of shade.
The Top Hiking Trails In Kalbarri
There are two sides to hiking in the park: the inland gorge—this dramatic river canyon—and the cliffs by the coast. They are worlds apart, and trying to do both in a single day is likely to have you making haste from one lookout to another rather than savoring the walk.
On a first trip make The Loop Trail and Nature’s Window in the gorge your priority; for the coast, Bigurda or the Mushroom Rock Nature Trail are good options. A short lookout will do to break up a hot afternoon or see in the sunrise and sunset.
| Trail Or Walk | Approximate Distance | Time | Difficulty | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Loop Trail | 8 km circle | 3–5 hrs | Grade 4 | For the experienced and those after some gorge scenery |
| Z Bend River Trail | 2.6 km return | 2–3 hrs | Grade 4 | Steep walls and river access |
| Ross Graham River Walk | 700 m return | 30–60 min | Short and uneven | To put in a quick appearance on the riverbank |
| Bigurda Trail | 8 km return | 3–5 hrs | Grade 3 | Views of the ocean and cliffs |
| Mushroom Rock Nature Trail | 1.5 km return | 45–90 min | Grade 3 | A shorter hike among the rocks |
| Kalbarri Skywalk | Short walk and viewing platforms | 1–2 hrs | Easy to moderate | Some gorge views from the platforms |
These are estimates of distance and time, not guarantees. You can add considerably to the day with the heat, soft sand, scrambling or a crowded platform and the need to put down the camera. See to any closures or signage before you go.
The Loop And Window
If one wants to be in the Murchison River Gorge and not just looking at it, The Loop Trail is the main event. Nature’s Window is an easy place to start being near the trailhead, but the longer walk has more to offer in the way of texture, from the layered sandstone and exposed rock to the river and a feeling of being properly in the bush.
At 8 km round, the Loop is no casual affair and 3–5 hours is the norm. Uneven ground and rocky descents are to be expected along with steep parts and loose surfaces and nothing in the way of dependable shade. Give yourself some leeway if it is a warm day and you intend to photograph Nature’s Window, as all will want to.
Making Your Way Through The Gorge
Put on shoes with some grip and take water. Early is best. The going may seem fine at first until you are putting in the work to get out of the gorge under the afternoon sun.
Nature’s Window is not far from the car park but the rock about it is exposed and can be slick. Keep children close and remain behind the barriers. If there is anyone in your party not up to a full day of it, consider the window a separate, short excursion.
Z Bend River Country
From Z Bend Lookout the trail makes its way down to the Murchison River. It is more of a physical undertaking than the short walk to the lookout and puts you in front of the gorge’s towering walls and folds.
Plan for 2–3 hours for the 2.6 km return and a while at the river, though track management can mean conditions and distances are not exact. One is caught out on the way back up; the descent is efficient enough but the sun makes you pay for it on the climb.
Where It Is Steep
There are steps and terrain that is anything but flat, so smooth soled sneakers and light rations of water are not advised. Those who think a national park track will be level would be better off elsewhere.
For those not in a position to do the river walk, Z Bend Lookout is well worth the stop. Follow the signs from the marked parking and take in the view from above. Do not go past the safety barriers in pursuit of a photo.
A Safe Way to the Riverbank
For an unpretentious route to the Murchison River there is the Ross Graham River Walk. It is a short affair, well suited to families and those of limited time who are not in the mood for The Loop or Z Bend Trail but still want some gorge scenery.
The 700 m return will occupy you for 30 to 60 minutes or so, contingent on track conditions and how often you put in a stop. Be mindful of the riverbank which can be rocky, uneven or treacherous underfoot after a rain. One should not be fooled into thinking that a placid stretch of water is safe for a swim.
An Option for a Shorter Walk
Ross Graham is a sound choice if one is running late. A packed lunch by the river and you can be back in Kalbarri before the heat gets too much of you. There is no long-distance test as with the principal gorge routes, and in a way that is the point.
When it comes to the Murchison Gorge Walks a conservative approach is called for. Do not make rescue part of your itinerary; mobile coverage is at a premium and the weather has a mind of its own. Let someone know your plans and when you will be back.
Coastal Cliff Tracks
Travellers in search of open heath, cliffs and the ocean will find the Bigurda Trail the preferred coastal hike. You can make of it a longer return walk, calling in at Red Bluff Lookout and other vantage points along the way.
Expect to put in 3–5 hours for the 8 km return. The exposed ground, wind and heat have more of an effect than most allow for. There is no canopy to be found round the next corner, so even a mild morning calls for sun protection.
One must exercise discipline on the coastal cliffs: stay on the path, put some distance between yourself and the edge and watch over the children. Erosion has a way of undermining the ground at the top of a cliff and no photograph is worth the exercise in gravity.
Make the Coast Your Focus
With a day in Kalbarri you have to decide on the coast or the gorge. The Loop or Z Bend will give you the geology and the exertion. For easier planning and open horizons, go with the lookouts on the Bigurda.
Most visitors will find a car the only sensible means of getting to the various trailheads. Put in some time in Kalbarri to sort out provisions and fuel, and see how the unsealed roads are if it has been raining. Walking from site to site is hardly feasible.
Mushroom Rock and Four Ways
The Mushroom Rock Nature Trail is a good way to get out on the coast and see some odd rock formations without the time or energy commitment of Bigurda. Then there is the Four Ways Trail in Kalbarri for a bit of ruggedness and cliff country. You can put these in with a couple of viewpoints, but factor in the parking and time to read the interpretive signs.
What is Right for You
While Mushroom Rock is better for a novice than The Loop, do not let the word “short” lull you into a false sense of ease; you will need water and proper shoes for the loose stones and heat. The Four Ways Trail is for those who do not mind an exposed track and some physical work. If there are any in your party with mobility issues, verify the access rather than putting faith in an old blog or a hunch.
Views from the Skywalk
To get above the Murchison River Gorge the Kalbarri Skywalk is about as straightforward as it gets. The platforms put you beyond the cliff line for a good visual without having to make the full descent. Set aside an hour or two for the area and your photos. It is fine for a brief scenic outing but the glare and uneven ground can be uncomfortable. The sun will be just as strong on a technically short walk, so have a hat and water with you.
Some Scenic Interludes
Meanarra Hill Lookout makes for a low key stop with wide views, as does the Malleefowl Loop where one can get to know the local flora and fauna without covering major distances. And for a solid coastal halt, try Red Bluff in conjunction with some of the Bigurda. Better to have three stops done right than seven in a hurry; plan for the temperature and light.
Plan Maps, Fees and Safety
There is no more practical item to have on hand than a good Kalbarri National Park map. If one can be had, put in an application for the official PDF before you head out of town; reception is not to be relied upon in the gorge or along the coast. A phone with charge to spare and an offline map saved are wise, but have a paper copy as well.
Western Australia’s parks authority will have the latest on any closures, trail access, tickets and what the national park is charging by way of fees. Do not make the mistake of trying to reason with a sign over a track that has been shut down; conditions and costs are subject to change so verify from the source prior to departure.
A Hiking Checklist
- On extended routes, have food and electrolytes at the ready and take on more water than seems necessary.
- Put on something to ward off the wind and heat, use sun protection and ensure your footwear has grip.
- Before you leave Kalbarri, look at the forecast for road conditions, fire warnings and the like.
- Make sure someone knows where you are going and when to expect you back, this being especially important on a hike in the gorge.
- Rubbish does not stay behind; neither do you from the marked tracks and cliff edges.
Summer makes Kalbarri a hard place to be and midday hiking can be unsafe. The cooler months are kinder for longer walks, though one should still check for weather or any closure. Rain can render a track eroded or too slippery to use.
As for budgeting, factor in fuel, meals, entry to the park and whatever transport you fancy. Prices are not fixed so get confirmation of the charges. Kalbarri town is where you will find accommodation and provisions; the remote trailheads are not conducive to a café visit if you have left lunch behind.
Some Trail Questions Answered
Travellers are wont to ask these when weighing up the walks in Kalbarri. The answers below are short and to the point, yet your group’s ability and the state of the weather and any closures must be the deciding factor.
What Is The Best Hike?
Experienced walkers looking to put in some time in the Murchison River Gorge will usually find the Loop Trail to be the all-round best. For ocean and coastal cliffs the Bigurda Trail is preferable, whereas the Ross Graham River Walk is suited to a more leisurely and brief excursion.
How Long Is The Loop Trail?
Around 8 km in its circular form. Under normal circumstances plan for 3 to 5 hours, but hot weather, uneven terrain or the inclination to stop for a rest or a photograph will add to that.
How Long Is Z Bend Walk?
The Z Bend River Trail is 2.6 km return, 2–3 hours typically. Do not think the descent is half the work, you will need the energy and time for the steep climb back from the river.
How Long Is The Skywalk?
An hour or two to see the platforms and viewpoints on the approach to the Kalbarri Skywalk. It is less of a demand than the big gorge hikes and far shorter, but you are as exposed to the elements.
Are The Trails Beginner-Friendly?
To an extent. A novice would be better served by the Skywalk, the Malleefowl Loop, some of the lookouts or the Ross Graham River Walk than by the likes of the Z Bend or the Loop. One should not be underestimating the heat or wearing out trainers on a long gorge hike late in the day.
Choosing A Walk In Kalbarri
A bit of forethought is repaid by the national park. You can have the coast with its views across the Western Australian shoreline and the wind, or the winding sandstone of the gorge. Should you have the time, a short nature trail or lookout can be done in conjunction with a more substantial walk.
I would advise you to begin early, be prepared for the track to put up more of a fight than you thought and have your water. Check the conditions. Follow that unglamorous counsel and you will remember the drama of the river canyon well after you have brushed the red dust from your shoes.
